The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champs Gain 1er Cru has a touch more mineralité on the nose compared to the Les Chenevottes, touches of gypsum and oyster shell intermingling with light white linen scents. The palate is very well balanced and beautifully poised, with entrancing white peach and nectarine notes toward the irresistible finish. Yes, yes, yes!
“The 2020 vintage was easy overall – no hail or maladies, but a precocious harvest, so we started picking August 22,” Damien Colin explained when I dropped in at his winery in the confusingly named village of Gamay. “You would think that the wines are rich, but they’re not at all like that. The whites are coming back to a more classic style of Burgundy, less ripe and rich than the previous two vintages, with a lot of freshness. With the maturity and acidity levels, I felt that we should reduce the percentage of new oak to preserve this freshness and also pick each parcel at optimal maturity within the climat. For example, the Chassagne-Montrachet Village was picked over five di!erent days, and the same for the En Remilly, whereas before they were picked and blended in the vat on the same day. Each parcel is vinified separately and then blended to try to respect the maturity of each one. There is no bâtonnage, and now I use three cooperages instead of ten: Chassin, François Frères and one in Cognac. I no longer use foudres because the domaine is smaller and we have smaller yields, so the wine is just matured in piéces. All the wines have been in vat since September. I prefer the 2020 to the 2019 because it is more Bourguignon, more classic in style.” This was a fabulous set of 2020s from Damien Colin, full ofverve and precision.
Pretty and airy aromas include those of citrus blossom, freshly sliced apple and a whiff of rosemary oil. The rich and very generously proportioned flavors still manage to have very good underlying tension on the agreeably dry, focused and solidly complex finale. This is quite good, in fact unusually so compared to what is typical for the vineyard.
Aromas of citrus zest, peach and pear, mingled with hints of white flowers, hazelnuts and fresh bread, preface the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and nicely concentrated wine with a bright spine of acidity and a mouthwateringly chalky finish. This looks to be Colin´s best Champs Gain since 2017.
February, 2024
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Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain
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