The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Chaboeufs has a very well defined, slightly metallic bouquet that is vigorous and focused. The palate is very silky and more refined than the Les Boudots. Despite some reduction this seems to have more class and finesse, serving as a decent Nuits Saint Georges without the bells and whistles. My final visit of the day was to Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron, just up the Route Nationale from Domaine de l’Arlot in Premeaux-Prissey. It took me a while to engineer the car into the courtyard since a man-eating hound refused to budge out of the way of the vehicle. It would probably not go down well with winemaker, Alain Meunier, had I run the mutt over. Alain’s father-in-law was Jean-Jacques Confuron, a quietly spoken gentleman who has done much to make this one of the most sought after domaines in Nuits Saint Georges. The domaine includes 8.5-hectares of vines in the Cote de Nuits that have been farmed organically since 1989, the portfolio crowned by a parcel in Romanee-Saint-Vivant, a thin but precious strip to the north of the climat, sandwiched between Alain Hudelot-Noellat and Lalou Bize-Leroy. Though usually most of the fruit is de-stemmed, Alain told me that this year the premier and grand crus include 20% whole clusters. The use of new oak here is quite pronounced relative to others: 30% for the village crus, between 40% and 50% for the premier crus and over 60% for the grand crus, but I did not find it excessive and it was beautifully knitted into the fabric of these 2012s, especially his sumptuous grand crus that should easily age over 20 or 30 years. I look forward to visiting once again - mindful of not running over the dog of course.
Slightly reduced aromas of roasted black raspberry, licorice and violet. A sweet, fine-grained fruit bomb in the mouth, offering more definition and verve than the Boudots to its blackberry and cassis flavors. Creamy-sweet but with nicely integrated acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannins giving the wine shape and energy. This wine was made entirely from vines planted in 1981 as the Meuniers pulled up the oldest vines for replanting before the 2012 season.
While there is initially a trace of reduction, aggressive swirling eventually coaxes hints of herbal tea, game and spice nuances along with ripe red and dark currant aromas; if you´re going to try a bottle young I would suggest decanting this in advance. There is excellent phenolic maturity and concentration to the velvety, rich and very seductively textured flavors that offer fine depth and length. This is very Nuits in character yet at the same time it´s not overly rustic.
November, 2023
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