Notably ripe but brooding and somber aromas of spice, raspberry liqueur, warm earth and violet struggle somewhat against the generous oak treatment. Otherwise there is excellent volume and power to the big-bodied and muscular flavors that display solid detail before terminating in an extremely firm, vibrant and quite serious finish that possesses simply stunning depth and persistence. As the description suggests this is not entirely harmonious at present but the underlying material is so good that this explosive effort should eventually be nothing short of remarkable.
The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru comes from vines planted in 1929 and 1930, and is matured in 50% new oak. It has a surprisingly strict bouquet that does not exude the flamboyance or hedonism once normally associates with Bonnes-Mares. This is much more strict and stoic. The palate is harmonious with ripe, silky, smooth black cherry and boysenberry fruit interlaced with fine mineralité. The finish is almost understated, deceiving you with its length as it gently fans out. You end up being quite smitten by this Bonnes-Mares that should give 20, perhaps 30 years of pleasure.
October, 2023
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