There is a hint of exoticism to the citrus, pear and white peach suffused nose that is presently trimmed in a noticeable, if very slight, touch of sulfur. The rich and extremely fresh middle weight plus flavors possess an impressive amount of dry extract as well as ample mineral influence on the austere and ultra-pure finish that seems to go on and on. This powerful and impeccably well balanced but presently closed effort should live for many years though it will probably come to its peak 10 to 12 years from now. In a word, fabulous.
The 2008 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is performing nicely from bottle, even if it´s not quite as it was five or six years ago, offering up aromas of orange oil, fresh pear, honeycomb, dried apricot and nutty, toasty oak. On the palate, it´s medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids, chalky grip and a lactic quality that I suspect derives from the vintage´s high levels of malic acid. This is a contender for Bonneau du Martray´s finest Corton-Charlemagne of the 2000s.
Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching a live wire. This seems every bit as steely as the estate´s 2007 at the same stage but denser; in fact, this may be even more closed.
January, 2024
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Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
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